Hi, The battery connector polarity matches our LiPo batteries with the mating JST connector. verified purchaser. Testing this with our engineer's iOS v10.11 EL Capitan, there were no issues compiling. So, things to consider: (i) don't populate the JST, include unsoldered header as option; (ii) make it face another side of the PCB (not same as USB; maybe move power switch to opposite side and rotate JST 90deg? Update by Member #807947 The programming skill is all about communication and code. I bought this wanting to learn about micropython on 8266. The time/date stamp on data.sparkfun.com are all set to UTC, and that can't be modified. With or without the jumper, i get only griberish which as a result makes the use of AT commands impossible with this board. The Adafruit Huzzah board has one mounted atop a board with custom circuitry. by Member #688464 I do wish I had a few more GPIO, but this product is really more for making UI-less sensor nodes than full-blown systems. Providing holes for a removable jumper for that function would be very nice so I don't have to unsolder a wire to allow for program uploads. Together with the 3.3V FTDI Basic, hook-up, programming and uploading to the Thing could be done very easily; within a day - Thanks to the comprehensive hook-up guide. The Arduino libraries make it relatively effortless to use, and I had a couple days worth of battery life on a 1,000 mAH lipo while posting a temperature reading every ~5 minutes and deep sleeping between readings. about 8 years ago The 09717 cable is not the best choice for this device, but I made it work. I tried to build a small capacitance meter with the Thing but when I use any of the above calls the ESP reboots. warning: espcomm_sync failed In general, I like the Arduino approach better since I'm mostly hooking up sensors that already have libraries written for them. to run the application, remove the wire or jumper, and power cycle the board. They would only program about 10% of the time. Sadly the module doesn't breakout all of the functionality of the ESP8266 but it does provide more than the 8-pin modules. I can't for the life of me get the thing flashed with ubuntu 15.04. Both the power and the charge LEDs are on, solid, when I plug in the board and the power switch is set to the on position. I hooked up an MPU6050 for a wearable physical therapy aid and it's been very straightforward. You should be all good to let your battery go unattended without damage. ESP8266 Thing (WRL-13231) Arduino add-on available 80MHz MicroB USB for charging only JST for single cell LiPo Power switch u. antenna connector Not Connected To use rotate 0ohm resistor 90deg PCB Antenna Power (ESP8266 Thing) Vin:3.3-5.5 Vbatt: Single cell Lipo (charged via USB) VCC (as input): 1.7V-3.6V VCC: 3.3V @ 500mA Max 12mA per I/O pin It would be nice to have something sourced in the country though. Add a coaxial power plug for attaching the solar cell. 1. I followed the hook up guide and program examples and voila, I was up and running and posting data to Phant in almost no time at all. I do not see any connectors nor PTH's for an external switch. I actually had one in my hand when I was writing that post. Looking over the board and the schematics it doesn't look like GPIO15 is brought anywhere. Please note: The fact that it wasn't fixed by unplugging it makes me very concerned.
Revolver Repair | FIRST Gunsmithing | Valley Park, Missouri the SSID is case sensitive. Note we have remote access to these systems but if it locked up or crash running the remote software and no one is at the office at 2 am, this should give us the ability to reboot them independent of the OS. So, it sounds like you are looking for technical assistance. I purchased a few of these along with a bunch of other devices (Particle Photon, NodeMCU Dev v0.9 boards, ESP8266 boards, etc.). The SparkFun ESP8266 Thing Dev Board is a powerful development platform that lets you connect your hardware projects to the Internet. about 8 years ago Finally, that's still probably not going to free up enough real estate, but for most applications, a slightly larger board would be worth the tradeoffs to get these added capabilities. For instance if I want to mount the board in a case and want to switch the power on/off without opening the case. Herein lies the two improvements I can think of. My roommate somehow damaged the sensor in his room (probably by stepping on it after he moved it from where I placed it, which wasn't on the floor) causing the bottom of the temp sensor wires I soldered through the board to puncture the thin covering of the battery. The already included I2C pull up resistors is another bonus which although low values have worked in all applications I have used it for. My wife's a ceramic sculpturer and is excited about it. All 3 work with the serial header disconnected. Is it possible ? UPDATE: tutorial to address EXACTLY what I am trying to do (power Thing on solar power) yey! The directory will probably be: You can also find this through the Arduino IDE and clicking on your preferences. When the jumper is in place I can't get the FTDI USB interface to attach to the header without bending things a bit. The SparkFun ESP8266 Thing is essentially a breakout and development board for the ESP8266 WiFi SoC. UPC: 618996732845. Like the SparkFun Beefcake Relay or maybe the PowerSwitch Tail II? Got the ESP8266 up & running in short order. See this section of the hookup guide for more info. Power LED removal significantly increased uptime. I plugged one of my 500 maH single cell helicopter batteries into it (Blade Glimpse) and it smoked Q1. There is a lot of similarity and code swapping capability between The Thing, the Ada fruit Huzzah and the Photon, but the lipo battery connector and charging circuit is a unique addition.ands is the space for a couple of other ic's. After over an hour of trying different things and getting only gibberish in the serial monitor, I decided to disconnect the FTDI cable and try my battery power options. There are FCC Certified ESP8266 modules you can buy. So here are my questions. Added to all that is the fact that the engineers at SparkFun were thoughtful enough to include both an on/off switch (amazing how few devices out there include this---the $300 WiFi unit I mentioned above does not, meaning that you must connect/disconnect the battery from the JST socket every time you use the device, and that requires a tool unless you're willing to break a lot of fingernails) and an on-board charger for the battery (another feature almost universally omitted). It also works just as well with the blynk application for learners looking to experiment with IoT. I used this to create a driveway monitor based on a vibration sensor.
Internet of Things with ESP8266 : build amazing Internet of Things It just shows reading from 30 to 60 where I was expecting a reading of 307 ( with 0,3 volts applied). The configuration is stored in flash and once configured it will frequently wake up momentarily to check sensors for leaks with deep sleep inbetween. Currently it covers all but the outermost row & those rows are partly covered. The Thing does everything from turning on an LED to posting data with datastream, and can be programmed just like any microcontroller. Eventually gave up and stopped using them. Please use the link in the banner above, to get started with posting a topic in our forums. my boards push an update every 63 seconds, giving the boards 3 seconds to connect and push data, and 60 seconds of sleep. A 3.3V FTDI Basic is required to program the SparkFun ESP8266 Thing, but other serial converters with 3.3V I/O levels should work just fine as well. Replace the 73831 with a 73871. (I cut the DTR short). by Fauziah Othman about 8 years ago But if I have a small panel this should work correct? The only problem was it apparently doesn't pull down DTR, so then I hooked the fake ftdi to the DTR on the thing, opened putty on a second com port, the Thing dropped right into download mode and took sketch after sketch. verified purchaser. I was excited when I saw the USB connector, but then disappointed when I looked at the schematic. I think in the next rev, it would be nice to have the jumper for GPIO-0 to DTR be a three way jumper, so you pull the jumper off GPIO-0 to DTR and put it back on DTR to XPD for sleep mode that way you can swap for programming, then swap back for serial debug and sleep mode. The third item is to interrupt the DTR line (green wire) from the FTDI cable at the breadboard. If not, can any of the modules provided by the ESP8266 Arduino github can be used to program the Thing? Much more reliable and stable than the NodeMCU stuff. verified purchaser, The Thing does not work with AT commands, in case you are used to the other ESP-xx boards out there. I can't get the serial monitor not to display griberish, although I followed the directions to cut the trace of the DTR jumper. Differences "ESP8266 Thing - Dev Board" vs the Original "ESP8266 Thing"? Using Sparkfun's excellent setup guides and example code I was able to create wireless temperature sensors that post data to ThingSpeak (an unrelated but equally awesome cloud data collection service) with only a couple hours of work. To be more specific, you should be attaching the switch to your power supply (into the board) and not the board itself. I made an rgb led cloud for my sons room controlled via the blynk app. You can also control it from your phone, or hook up to the weather! It was a little confusing when I first powered up the board that I needed to cut traces and add a jumper to make the serial console work, but this was all documented in the hookup guide (with Wifi as the big feature, serial is actually one of the later topics). It would be nice to have such a feature on board since you went to the trouble to add the charging chip, etc. That being said, if you take a look at the example in the Switch Basics tutorial, you should be able to get a good idea of how to use a switch to cut power to the board. Couple things have me stymied - the USB and JST battery connector are flush with end of board, so not obvious how to hide the JST/battery inside the enclosure, and the on board power switch is too small and will be inside the enclosure. Have not connected the USB-serial converter yet! So.. after reading all the comments I realize there is none greener than I on this board so please bear with me.. by gwiley Adjust one and the change works its way down through the sequence of movements affecting each other part. and because it has its own battery charger, I can charge off of solar and put this out in my back yard and have a visual LCD display showing me what is going on with my MQTT devices at a glance! However I am trying to get a I2C alphanumeric display working with example sketch with no avail (https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-LED-Backpack-Library/blob/master/examples/quadalphanum/quadalphanum.ino). Does anyone have an idea about how to send the SSID and password to the board from an app/mobile/client using Soft AP? verified purchaser. by Member #496520 ), EEPROM size, Flash size, etc. But now I got everything working great and have a remote temperature sensor for the pool. A basic soldering iron is all you should need. Sorry for the simple questions but I just started and I have a long way to go before I could use this item properly. about 7 years ago I got the Thing up and running to the point it was serving web pages and I could download them from another PC on my network. Or will I need to make additional configurations? This is both to a my email address as well as to an SMS gateway so I also get a text message alerting me. Is there a limitation that prevents this? add to list. I have created a video tutorial for this part: I did try with 115200 (the baud rate I used with the wifi module) but nothing happens. I now own both. I posted a little more about my experience here: https://katygero.wordpress.com/2016/01/09/iot-light-sensor-its-a-thing/, about 7 years ago Amazing. Mfr Part #: KS0500. The latest versions of the Espressif SDK required a minimum of 8mbit Flash onboard. 2. I've been a tinkerer for a long time but haven't had much opportunity the last few decades due to work and family. SparkFun ESP8266 Thing WRL-13231 49 $18.50 Volume sales pricing Shipping outside of the US? about 6 years ago My only request is that SparkFun take the next step and integrate the 9DOF IMU on the same board as the ESP8266 Thing. Almost as if I was trying to beat a WDT reset. For example, it might say the "kitchen" detected a leak on the "dish washer" sensor.
PDF SparkFun ESP8266 Thing